Artistic shades of pink: rosé wine
March 13, 2017
Given how versatile it is, it’s surprising that we don’t pay more attention to rosé wine. Perhaps prejudice makes us see rosé wine as less serious than white or red wine? Or maybe it’s because we’ve all, at some time or other, tried one of those awful cloyingly sweet, sickly pink beverages and decided rosé wine really wasn’t for us? I confess I definitely fall into that category and was surprised in our recent tasting to see just how much such wines can vary.
How rosé wine is made
Rosé wine is made with red wine grapes. It has less colour than red wine because the grape skins, which give wine its colour, are in contact with the juice for a shorter time.
There are three main ways of making rosé wine, the first two being the most usual.
Drawing-off (also called saignée or bleeding)
This process starts like red wine. Crushed, destemmed red wine grapes are put into a tank or barrel to macerate for between 6 and 48 hours so that some of the colour from the skins gets into the juice. The more time the skins are in contact with the juice, the deeper the colour. These wines are likely to have some tannins too, also from the skins. Then the juice (must) is removed from the skins and fermented in the same way as a white wine.
The freshly harvested red grapes are pressed without any maceration. A small amount of colour is extracted from the skins during the pressing process. The must is then fermented like white wine. The result is usually a very pale coloured rosé with little or no tannin.
This is where a small amount of red wine is blended with white wine to make it pink-coloured. This is not common and, apart from Champagne, is not permitted in the EU.
Rosé tasting on the terrace
On a hot summer’s day, a group of us recently got together to taste rosé wines during an al fresco buffet. We tried four rosé wines which served above all to show how diverse such wines can be. Many thanks to the tasting panel: Kate Whitlock, John Ewer, Kerry Dudman, Anne Dudman, Irina Axenova, Crystal Manafi, Carola de Rodt and Helen Conway. Thank you also to John Ewer for taking the photos.
Koyle Don Cande Cinsault 2015, Itata Valley, Chile.
12.5% ABV. Available from Vinoteca in Chile at CLP8,490.
Made from 100% Cinsault grapes from dry-farmed old vines in Itata. The grapes were harvested early to retain their acidity and direct pressed. The must was fermented slowly at a low temperature. 20% of the wine was aged in used oak barrels.
This wine was a pale salmon colour. The nose revealed subtle citrus aromas, like lime. The wine was dry with light body, barely perceptible tannins, refreshing, crisp acidity and a light citrus flavour. This is a very light and refreshing wine, perfect as an appetiser on a hot day.
J. Bouchon Reserva Rosé 2016, Maule Valley, Chile.
12.5% ABV. Available from Vinoteca in Chile for CLP$4,590.
This wine was made with 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% País grapes. The drawing off method was used, the grapes being macerated for 12 hours at 8°C. The must was then fermented at a low temperature for 30 days.
This pale salmon-coloured wine had a medium nose with savoury and herbal notes. It was dry with refreshing acidity, light body and some herbaceous and savoury notes of mushrooms. The finish was medium.
Rainstorm Silver Linings Pinot Noir rosé 2014, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA.
12.5% ABV. Kindly brought from the USA by Anne Dudman.
This wine was made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes using a mixture of two techniques: 65% of the grapes were direct pressed to give it acidity and elegance, while 35% was drawn off after some skin contact to provide additional fruit and some structure. It was fermented at a low temperature.
This wine was a very pale orange colour. The nose was quite aromatic with classic Pinot Noir notes of cooked strawberries, earthy and mushroom notes as well as a touch of caramel and rose petals. This was an elegant wine, dry, with refreshing acidity and medium body. The flavours were again very classic Pinot Noir: red fruit, mushrooms and forest floor. A very versatile and food-friendly wine and the favourite in our tasting.
Domaine de Crève Coeur’s Le Rosé du Coucou 2015 from the southern Rhône in France.
13.5% ABV. Available in Chile from Edwards Fine Wines for CLP$11,300.
This biodynamic wine was made with 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsault grapes , which were directly pressed. The must was then fermented slowly at a low temperature.
This wine was a mid-red colour, much deeper than many rosés. A very pleasant nose of red fruits, like cranberries and strawberry jam, together with some aromas of toffee. This was a dry wine with medium acidity, medium body and pleasant red fruit and toffee flavours. This wine would pair well with light dishes, such as white fish or salad.
Have you had any rosé wine experiences you’d like to share? Any you particularly liked or disliked? I’d love to hear from you.